Why I Didn't Run the Ultra Caballo Blanco

I'm going to write a longer blog post about the UCB and traveling to the Copper Canyon for one of the most unique experiences ever......but this post is dedicated to why I didn't run it.

In the days preceding the race, drug cartel violence erupted. I have read multiple news articles in Spanish and in English, and all of them say slightly different things. Basically, we don't know exactly what happened, but some people were murdered. Some were kidnapped. People heard gunfire.

The race directors chose to cancel the race. It was for a variety of reasons: security issues (obviously), course changes, and this was a race of love and community and peace, and would it not be run like this if it occurred. There might be other reasons too, that I don't know about, but these were the main reasons.

I flew to run the race because it was to be a pilgrimage. I love to travel, and the idea of this race has intrigued me since I read Born to Run many years ago. To run with the legendary Raramuri....wow. The trails were gorgeous, and I love running in pretty places. I also was excited about this race as a come-back race from my injury. Most importantly, it was to be a race to honor my Grandma Ann, who died at the age of 93 what would be exactly three weeks before the race.

But it was not to be. Some people chose to run anyway: "I came down here to run with the Raramuri, and I'm going to!" I did not. Here's why.

1. Safety. This was not "I might turn my ankle on this course" - it was, "I might die." I spent four days in Mexico City prior to come, some of my time which I spent talking with all my friends there about the drug cartels. (I also wrote a report about Mexico for work, and am quite familiar with the drug cartels and the horrific violence they exact on their opponents and innocent people.) My friends educated me about the government's link with the cartels, about the violence, about what has been going on. It scares the crap out of me. My friend Wendy explained that innocent people had been getting kidnapped (for ransom), express kidnapped, arrested, worse. I could potentially be in the wrong place at the wrong time and get in between cartel cross-fire, or, blonde gringa, could be seen as a nice person for a ransom kidnapping or express kidnapping. I want to live. No race is worth the cost of dying.
2. Lack of power in numbers. Most people were leaving the canyon. Why would I stay here when most people were leaving? The course would be more isolated, less people would be leaving when I'd be leaving....no. Leaving was the right decision. While there were Raramuri and Mexicans who stayed and ran, the number was definitely smaller than it was supposed to be.
3. Respect. I respect the RDs Maria and Josue. I am an RD myself, and it's always frustrating when someone is blatantly disrespectful. It's Burning Man for my race, so I try to be chill, but I do call out people who are cutting the course, dropping without telling volunteers, acting like a jerk. I want to show Maria and Josue the same respect given to me - and if that means following their directions and rules, yes, that is what I will do. And that is what any participant should do.

We still don't know the full story of what happened. We probably never will. I like to take risks and travel to foreign countries and go all over with my backpack and some books, but running a race where I was warned of safety issues is not something I'm willing to risk.

Further Reading:

• Will Violence End Ultra Caballo Blanco?
• La Guerra por la Sierra Tarahumara
• Eran Policias los Tres Calcinados en Urique
• Double Murder and Drug Violence Lead to Ultramarathon Cancellation 

Hasta Luego, Mexico

written my last night in Mexico, at the airport....

Lump in my throat. I’ll be back.

Had an amazing trip in Mexico. From the ancient ruins, well, everywhere – from Palenque to Monte Albon to Yaxchin to Teotehuacan to Templo Mayor…to improving my Spanish…to hiking. To long walks alone, to long walks holding Wayne’s hand. To chilling on the beach, to sitting on a crowded bus. To reading in a hammock, to sipping pina coladas, to a month of no work, to Mexico.

To all those who said it was super duper dangerous – I told you. I’m not part of the drug cartel so I was safe. The North is the more dangerous part, many would say. Those border towns (hmmmm does it have anything to do with the U.S.?).

Theft occurs, yes, and other bad things as well.

But Mexico, I learned so much from you and I plan on coming back.

Seis! TRAIL RUN

Mexico City seems like a highly unlikely place for good trail running – but after a friendly Ultralister reached out to me, I knew I’d find the jewels of trail running in Mexico.

Wendy, Alex, Scott (who is coincidentally a friend from NYC) and I headed to the trails. Wendy told me horror stories of Wasatch, but she kept saying how great it was. (When is it great, after you were speaking in tongues and puking and blacking out? Oh no, before, that’s great. J)

The run started at 9,000 something feet and basically mostly went up to 12,600 feet. My asthma felt a little bad at times – I had to use my inhaler two extra doses and I could feel it, especially as I climbed towards the very top.

Beautiful views – of volcanoes, pretty rocks. The trails were dirt and rocky at times, but not too bad. It was a really lovely place.

The downhill part was just great. Down, down, down, and not too technical. I had a blast going down.

And afterwards, Wendy and Alex heated up some vegetarian tamales and we sat in the garden with the cats in the sunshine, talking about running, eating, enjoying the day.

All before a 5pm flight back to the states!

Cinco: Mexico City

My last full day....

Got up early and cranked out a decent run. 

Hopped on the Metro. When getting off the train, some complete jerk used it as an excuse to grab my butt. F*** YOU!

Then, headed over to Templo Mayor to see some amazing ruins. Sad how the conquistadors tried to completely erase a civilization.

Next, had a bit more time, so stopped by Museo Archivo de la Fotografia, which was full of old photos of Mexico City. Really interesting. Also stopped by Museo del Estanquillo which was mainly drawings (which are not my favourite thing) but it did have a lovely terrace.

I strolled around the Zocalo, getting a nice goodbye to Zocalo and the Centro Historico. Vendors selling wares (and getting hassled by cops), traditional dancers, all sorts of fun. I hopped on the Metro back to my hostel, checked out. I left my big bag and storage and headed out to explore Roma and Condessa a bit more. 

I went to MUCA Roma which was really strange. They had this whole bizarre exhibit where they told you this plant was unknown and toxic and blah blah blah and you had to wear a mask and a lab coat and walk through chlorinated water and stick your head under this mirror thing and it was so strange, I can't explain.

Then I got lunch at an organic cafe with plenty of veg options. Wooohooo!

I wandered more around Roma and Condessa, popping into stores. I got an amazing brownie cheesecake cupcake, visited some shops, sat on a park bench, drank a chai, read. I felt so relaxed.

I hopped in a cab over to fellow ultrarunner Wendy's house. The ultra list is powerful and connects all those who are interested. We hung out, chatted, got dinner...a lot of fun. Ultrarunning is such glue.

And tomorrow...a trail run! Can't wait!

Run Love

One of the best things about running is it allows me to see a lot more of the places I travel to.

My body was tired - I had a ton of racing last autumn, so I decided I'd use my time in Mexico as downtime. I ran most days (I only had three days off, I think, in the entire 3.5 weeks, and most of those I had to take off due to travel days (w/ impossibility to run)) and some days I didn't run long, but getting out there, stretching my legs, seeing more of the city was great.

Mexico City has been great for running - I'm close to a massive park so I spend mornings running there. You see a different view of the city.

I have a trail run scheduled w some Ultra Listers and, very nicely, a friend from back home. That will be my last day here - not spent in museums or at tourist spots but doing the one thing I love doing most: running.

I'm looking forward to it!

Cuatro: Mexico City

Getting into the energy of this great city...

Got up early, another great run in the park, this time with plyometrics! Wheeee!

Then I showered and ate and hopped on the Metro to the Frida Kahlo Museum. It was a bit of a walk from the Metro and while the museum was good and a must for Frida Fans, I was disappointed that it was rather small. I hopped in a cab and took it to Frida and Diego's studios. Again, small, not very much Frida - except for a really long great documentary with subtitles. Very interesting.

I walked to the Metro, stopping for a 29 peso torta on the way. I went to the Museo de la Memoria y Tolerancia - basically, a museum that focuses on the horrors of genocide. Really interesting stuff. I got the audio guide because I was worried I'd miss out (all of the signs are in Spanish) but you really need to know Spanish (and my Spanish was good enough) to figure stuff out.

I got a small snack and wandered the park, stopping at various vendors to check out the wares. Interesante. A nice guy started talking to me, just being friendly and we chatted for a while. Then I went into the Diego Rivera Murals Museum. Some so-so art, some good art. This guy (a Mexican guy who had been living in Virginia for 24 years) asked me to explain abstract art to him. I pointed out certain images and told him to not question things too much but to just try to enjoy things. But a little later, when I was in the room with Diego's massive mural, he was the one teaching me things. There are 75 characters with descriptions (and many others painted that aren't listed) so he gave me some background information on who they were. Very interesting discussions.

I headed back outside, and my friend from earlier was there. We walked over to Garibaldi Square, where the mariachi bands were setting up. I visited the Mescal and Tequila Museum (yay, free shots) and then walked around. I said goodbye to my friend and hopped on the Metro and again visited the vegetarian restaurant.

Tres: Mexico City

I got up and had a great 90 minute run in the nearby park. Wonderful.

I met a friend of a friend, David, who agreed to show me around Mexico City for the day. It was a great day.

First, we stopped by Museo de Bellas Artes - so beautiful. Next, the post office. This is the kind of building that would get anyone excited about mailing a letter! Then we headed over for the MUCA where they had a Musee de Orsay exchange so lots of great French paintings and artwork. Wonderful.

After, we headed to a really delicious lunch at a great restaurant - I had enchiladas with hibiscus - so good. And warm chocolate cake. I was full for hours!

Then, we headed over to the Zocalo, the main square. David told me it was the biggest square in Latin America. Also a little insane - hundreds or thousands of people, plus they had a (temporary) ice skating rink, snowmobile loop, sledding slide, and the usual vendors. Yikes!

 We went to El Palacio, gorgeous. I ended up taking lots of photos of the building. They also had great artwork inside.

Then, over to the Secretario building to enjoy the murals there. I love all the murals.

Went to Santo Domingo - such a pretty square, and a pretty church.

Back to Zocalo, to enjoy Catedral.

Then we went to a rooftop terrace and got tea and enjoyed the view...just chilled. The streets had been pure craziness - crowds of people and buses and vendors and the vendors running from cops - so it was nice to relax.

Back to the hostel for a quick shower and relax - and then David and I went to a hipster bar for drinks and tapas...mescal with hibiscus, yes please!

Exhausting yet awesome day!

Dia Dos: Mexico City

I got up early w the intention of running before heading out to Teotihuacan, but it was dark so I just headed over to the bus station and hopped on the hour-long ride to the amazing ruins. Lonely Planet had warned that this bus had been subject to armed robbery in the past so of course I was paranoid. It was fine.

Teotihuacan was AMAZING. I climb the third-tallest pyramid in the world. I got there early so it was super quiet (and also freezing....brrrrrr....) and it was really nice to get some interesting photos. The site is SO well preserved compared to a lot of other places so that was really great. Of course my favourites were the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon (Luna!).

After, I hopped on the subway and headed over to the Museo del Arte Moderno. Great stuff. They had a fantastic exhibit on women surrealists that was wonderful. The rest of the art was great.

I walked through the Bosque and bought popcorn from a vendor as I headed to the Anthropology Museum. Incredible. A lot of stuff was put together for me - they had some of the great relics from Monte Albon and Teotihuacan, and a lot of great explanation of the indigenous cultures of Mexico and also evolution and so many things. I was exhausted from walking around all day, climbing so many steps on the ruins, walking, not eating, getting up early. At the end of the museum, I was about ready to sleep.

I found a great vegetarian restaurant a few blocks from my hostel, Yug Vegetarian. Like all veg restaurants here, they have meat things but the food was just excellent. I ate salad and cilantro vegetarian lasagna and then headed back to my hostel for an early night...

Dia Uno: Mexico City

I arrived on New Year's Day after a crazy bus ride where the guy next to me wouldn't stop yammering away in Spanish and when he started making me feel uncomfortable with his personal questions ("Why are your fingernails so short?" "What a pretty name you have...so pretty..." "Do you have babies? Are you having any?") I had to be rude and start reading (which I wanted to do anyway). The bus station was a shitshow when I arrived. Because unauthorized taxis have been problematic (read: people got robbed) in the past, you can go to a counter and pay and then you get a slip and wait in line and the taxi driver gets the slip and gets reimbursed. So I waited for an hour in line.

The streets were ghosts. Everything was closed. I arrived in Roma, which I was told was the hot, really hip neighborhood to stay in - and nothing was opened. It was weird. This is the cool neighborhood? I was later told this is because it was New Year's Day. Well, in NYC, New Year's Day means you recover from your night of drinking the night before and you sleep in really in late and then head out to brunch and maybe you do something productive, like pick up some tissues at the drug store or some milk at the health food store.

I headed out for a run - what else to do? It got dark quickly and I began tripping, and I was hungry so I decided to pop into the one cafe I found open with decent prices. They told me they were closing in 10 minutes so I couldn't run further (and I promised Wayne I wouldn't run in the dark here...) so I placed a to go order.

I headed back to my hostel, ate in the common area and played with the hostel kitty.

The streets were quiet but I was aware that this city seemed pretty rad. I couldn't wait for it to open and explode!

Oaxaca

After another 6 hour van ride that could only described as “wild and windy” we arrived in Oaxaca. Tripping over potholes with our flipflops and navigating the crowded streets with our giant packs, we ultimately settled into our comfortable B&B, Tia Tere.

We immediately sought out some food (a TERRIBLE vegetarian restaurant that was awful save the best guacamole we ever ate), and wandered around, hitting up the various markets, searching out the perfect treasures. Hand-in-hand, talking, strolling. We were exhausted. Why? I had slept most of the van ride and our day hadn’t been that hard. We collapsed into our bed at 8pm, setting a new record for early-to-bed.

We woke up early the next day and I headed out for a short run. A shower, big breakfast at our B&B, and then we headed out to Monte Albon. On the way out there, we stopped by Mayordomo’s for amazing hot chocolate – the kind you get a big hunk of bread and you dip in. SOOOOOOOOOO good. I would like another cup now please.

The ruins were lovely but crowded. After wandering around, we headed back to the city and tried to navigate the 2^nd class bus station (and “station” is a word I use very loosely). We ended up hopping in a crowded collectivo to the World’s Biggest Tree. It was big, very impressive. It dwarfed the church it was in front of. Estimates ranged from 1500 years old to 2000 years old. Wow. We hopped back in a collectivo and began our wander.

We found the ultimate market. I bought hibiscus leaves and horchata powder, Wayne tried a fried cricket (“It tastes like hot sauce.” Yes, like everything else in Mexico!). We strolled without a purpose, just looking, enjoying everything.

We found a Mescal Bar and one of the servers encouraged us in. Wayne got a beer, but I got a rather delicious glass of mescal – it’s in a shot glass but you drink it rather slowly, and drink it with chili salt and limes and oranges.

I was a little tipsy and ended up buying a bottle of Maracuya Mescal too. Oh yum. After, we found some food and ate at one of the nicer restaurants which was fun. After, we wandered the streets a bit more and then headed back to bed.

Following day was more running and breakfast, followed by another morning of searching for a collectivo and then to the ruins at Yagul. We had a 1.5 km walk up the road which was lovely. The ruins were impressive and large, and despite being both, were very empty – only 10-20 people were there the entire time we were there. It was pretty incredible.

After, we went back to the city for some more market wandering for the perfect souvenir for Wayne’s mom, and then sat in front of one of the churches, talking for a long time, resting. The church itself was beautiful, gold-leaf everything.

We rested in our room and then attempted to find dinner on New Year’s Eve – not an easy feat, especially since when we tried, it seemed most restaurants were on an expensive, not vegetarian-friendly set menu. We ultimately found a place, and enjoyed it – pina coladas and mescal margarita, with spinach cheese spaghetti, Oaxacan fried cheese with guacamole and pico de gallo, Mayordomo hot chocolate with bread, ice cream sundae…The square was full of vendors, full of people selling eggs filled with confetti, silly string, light-up toys, amongst the usual things: necklaces, stickers, shawls, shirts, bracelets, toys, etc. When sitting down to eat your dinner, you are constantly asked to buy things, to give people money.

At the stroke of midnight, the sky exploded with fireworks…a party indeed.

Our last night together, I slept poorly as I knew we’d be separated the next day…into two different countries for six more days. I clutched at Wayne as I slept and he held me tight. We got up early for a run during a dog followed us, and then breakfast, and packing.

I miss him already. And Oaxaca…how I miss your cheese, your cute colonial streets and churches. I miss you too.

Traveling with Wayne

Traveling with you can be so relaxing…I could get used to this!