Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts

27 December 2010

Surfer Chicas

Today I saw the cutest thing - two little girls learning how to surf. What an awesome thing to learn - to not fear the ocean, to enter a male-dominated hobby, to harness the power of the waves, to connect truly with water.

I'm in a total surf town, which I love. (I just came from Bocas del Toro, another surf town, but this town is quite obsessed with surfing, as opposed to just loving surfing.) Malpais y Santa Teresa are quite the place - I got here, ate, hit the beach to go surfing, did a run along the beach...and am feeling muy contenta. My hostel is chill with heaps of hammocks, great people, boards everywhere...if I can just satisfy my random ice cream craving (I never want ice cream, but today have wanted it all day), it'll be a perfect night.


And let's let the women continue to dominate the waves, and teach our daughters how to surf because there's nothing more amazing, more empowering, more fun than a little girl knowing what to do with the waves.

17 September 2009

"Learned to Surf" - Superchunk

If I seem out of it
I've just gone to find you, Ill be back in a bit
Circles close up but circles are wide
We'll be wearing wigs and costumes, won't need any hole to hide

When I learned to walk, you know humans roamed the earth
I can't hold my breath anymore, I stopped sinking and learned to surf
When I learned to talk, I found words that weren't worth dirt
I can't hold my breath anymore, I stopped swimming and learned to surf

If I drift out in channels way too deep
Its cause I can't stand the shifting sand and shells under our feet
Put your suitcase down, and leave your shoes
Gently by the door, in a puddle with your blues

When I learned to walk, you know humans roamed the earth
I can't hold my breath anymore, I stopped sinking and learned to surf
When I learned to talk, I found words that weren't worth dirt
I can't hold my breath anymore, I stopped swimming and learned to surf

When I learned to walk you know humans roamed the earth
I can't hold my breath anymore, I stopped swimming and learned to surf
When I learned to talk, I found words that weren't worth dirt
Heavy like the rocks we carry, I stopped sinking and learned to surf

I stopped swimming and learned to surf
Stopped swimming, learned to surf
I learned to surf
I learned to surf.

12 December 2008

every sport i love seems to be in the "other sports" category of the NY Times

Running. Yoga. Surfing.

At least one of them got some good coverage recently, and about women! This women's surfing article was a breath of fresh air. I really hate the super masculinized "dude" culture of surfing.

16 March 2008

along with my recent surfing obsession

i realized i have too many things in my life--an awesome relationship with a loving partner, my cat, running (which involves 6 days of 1-4+ hours of running per day, plus 2-4 days of strength training, cross training in pool and on elliptical), writing, traveling and travel dreams, and oh yeah, full-time job, along with social life, keeping my apartment clean, family...i don't have time to pursue surfing like i'd like. (plus i'm also a wuss; i just watched blue crush and those waves in that movie are totally fierce!!!)

however, a girl can dream. i'm reading surf books, looking up places to surf online...t and i are talking about a big trip to the south pacific in december, and i'm hoping for bali. i can surf! he was planning on scuba diving, so while i probably won't surf as much as he'll dive (i need to cram those multiple-hour-long runs in at some point!), i def want to spend some time in the waves. i'm also reading the article that blue crush was based on; really fascinating!

i want to get my own board; probably the best way to start. i am hoping to spend as much time as possible this summer in the waves, surfing...also have that ultramarathon and marathon...but i want to just have fun, prioritize my life, but really, get the most out of everything.